Washing Machine, Fridge & Water Heater Repair Prices in Cairo 2026

Indicative appliance repair prices

These are comparison ranges, not an official tariff. Crucially, they mostly cover the call-out and labour — the spare part itself is a separate line and is often the larger one.

Most technicians charge a diagnostic call-out fee and deduct it from the repair cost if you go ahead with them. If you decline after diagnosis, they keep the call-out fee — that's fair, but agree it on the phone before they travel, not after.

How the bill splits: call-out + labour + parts

This is the section that actually saves you money.

• Call-out: the technician comes, diagnoses the fault, and tells you what's needed. Indicatively 150–350 EGP, usually deducted if you proceed.
• Labour: the work itself — strip down, replace, test. It may or may not be inside the call-out fee. Ask explicitly.
• The part: the line that swings the bill. A drain pump, belt or sensor can be cheap. A control board or a fridge compressor is a completely different category.
• Concrete example: replacing a washing machine control board runs indicatively 800–2500 EGP — several times the call-out fee. Don't invite someone out unless you're prepared for that possibility.

The most common washing machine, fridge and heater faults

Not so you can fix it yourself — so you can ask sharp questions and not be sold a fault that isn't there.

• Machine won't drain: usually a blocked or failed drain pump, or a kinked hose. Typically one of the cheaper faults.
• Machine struggles to spin, or is noisy: the belt, the drum bearings, or the door seal. Mid-range.
• Machine won't heat: the internal heating element or the thermostat.
• Machine won't start, or the display sticks on an error code: this is where you'll hear "the board is burnt out". Boards genuinely do fail — but this is also the easiest fault to invent. Ask for evidence, not an assertion.
• Fridge runs but doesn't cool: it could be a refrigerant leak, a fan, a thermostat, or ice build-up blocking the airflow. The compressor is the most expensive possibility, and frequently not the actual cause.
• Heater ignites then cuts out, or water is lukewarm: the thermocouple, the gas valve, or a scaled-up heat exchanger. On an electric heater, usually the element or thermostat.

What drives the price

• Part type: genuine (from the agent) costs considerably more, aftermarket is cheaper, used is cheapest and riskiest. The difference isn't only price — it's lifespan.
• Brand: European brands (Bosch, Siemens, Electrolux) have pricier, harder-to-source parts than locally assembled machines.
• The appliance itself: fully automatic machines and NoFrost fridges carry more electronics, which means more expensive failures.
• Location and timing: distant districts, evening call-outs and public holidays usually carry a premium.
• Whether it has to go to the workshop: if the fault can't be fixed on site, you're paying transport both ways.

Red flags, and what to ask

The classic appliance scam is "the control board is burnt out" when the real fault was a cheap sensor. The second classic is the fake "authorised service centre" website with an invented hotline number — the only reliable way to find a real authorised agent is via the manufacturer's own site.

• Ask the call-out price on the phone, and whether it's deducted from the repair.
• Ask for the old part back after it's replaced. An honest technician won't mind. If they refuse, ask yourself why.
• Ask: is this part genuine or aftermarket, and what warranty comes with it? You want warranty on both the part and the labour — in writing, even if that's just a line on the receipt.
• If the appliance is still under manufacturer warranty, do not let a non-authorised technician open it. That voids it instantly.
• Make them show you the fault. A diagnosis delivered in two seconds without opening anything deserves a second opinion.
• Don't hand over the full cost of a part up front to someone you don't know, on the promise they'll go and buy it.

Repair or replace?

There's no sacred rule, but a practical one many people use: if the repair approaches half the price of an equivalent new appliance, and the unit is near the end of its expected life (a washing machine is typically 8–12 years), repairing is postponing the problem rather than solving it.

The reverse also holds. A three-year-old machine with one failed component is almost always worth repairing, even if the part is pricey.

How Eidak changes the dynamic

The core problem with appliance repair is that you have no idea what a fair price is, so you accept the first number you're given. On Eidak you post the job once — "automatic washing machine, brand X, won't drain, in this district" — and technicians bid on it. You see the market side by side instead of guessing.

You also see each technician's rating and job history before you choose, rather than a phone number on an advert.

And the money sits in escrow: it isn't released to the technician until you confirm the appliance actually works. Minimum task value is 200 EGP, and Eidak adds 10% on top of the bid — the technician receives 100% of what they bid. If you're unavailable to confirm, escrow auto-releases 24 hours after completion.

One important caveat: spare parts usually sit outside the bid. Agree the part's price in the in-app chat before it's bought — the chat is a record, and that protects both sides.

Frequently asked questions

How much is washing machine repair in Cairo?

The call-out is indicatively 150–350 EGP and is usually deducted from the repair if you proceed with the same technician. The part is separate: a drain pump is one thing, a replacement control board (indicatively 800–2500 EGP) is another entirely. Get a clear diagnosis before you agree to any figure.

My fridge runs but doesn't cool — is that an expensive fault?

Not necessarily. The call-out runs around 150–400 EGP, and the cause is often something modest — a fan, a thermostat, or ice blocking the airflow. The compressor is the expensive scenario, but it's frequently not the culprit. If someone says "compressor" without measuring anything, get a second opinion.

The technician says the control board is burnt out. What now?

Pause and get a second opinion. Board replacement is among the most expensive common faults, and also the easiest to fabricate because it's hard for a customer to verify. Ask them to demonstrate the diagnosis, ask for the old board back, and ask what warranty comes with the new one.

Genuine parts or aftermarket?

Genuine parts cost more, last longer, and usually carry an agent's warranty. Aftermarket is cheaper and can be a sensible call on an older appliance you won't keep for years. Used parts are cheap but a gamble. The point is to know exactly what you're paying for — ask before it's fitted, not after.

The appliance is still under warranty — what should I do?

Contact the authorised service centre through the manufacturer's own website, and don't let any outside technician open the unit, because that voids the warranty immediately. Watch out for sites impersonating authorised agents with fake hotline numbers — they're very common in Egypt.